William l



(No Model.)

W. L. HALL SHIRT.

Patented May 1, 1883.

I nv nlo r: WWW/w v WiTn-essesr %./4-/M 1 UNITED STATES PATENT. OFFICE.

WILLIAM L. HALL, OF TROY, NEW YORK.

SHIRT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 276,809, dated May 1, 1883.

Application filed February 23, 1883. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, WILLIAM LORD HALL, of the city of Troy, county of Rensselaer, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Apparel Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to the bosom's of apparel-shirts, and to a method of attaching the formerto the latter so as to produce a bound and headed fly-edge; and my invention consists, as will hereinafter be described, in the several process steps by which a beaded flyedge is produced rather than to a bosom flyedge broadly considered.

To attach the bosom to the shirt, and pro dues in so doing a beaded fly-edge upon the bosom by my improvement, the shirt-body (or body and front re-enforce, when the latter is used) are out out to receive the bosom and an opening made therefor, which is enough smaller than the bosom to produce, when the edge of the opening is turned over and down, one thickness of the beaded fly-edge, with the raw edges or edge of the fold thus made on the edge of the shirt-opening coincident with the outer edge of the bosom when the two parts are laid parallel. When this has been done one thickness of the bosom-fly or inner facing is out enough larger than the other thickness of the ply and bosom to subtenrl the edge of the latter, the lapping edge of thefacing or ply being turned down to thicken up the flyedge, and preferably turned down over the bosom-edge, and there it may be pasted, folded, or sewed. After the before-named steps have been accomplished the outer raw edges of the shirt'opening as folded, and the edges of the facing, where folded to subtend'the b0.

som, and the bosom are brought together and bound by a strip inclosing these outer edges, and by a seam made through both edges of the underlapping and overlapping strip, and through the intermediately-placed bosom, facing-ply, and shirt-body on the fold-line first formed in the edge of the opening made for the bosom in the shirt-front, or the'latter and re-enforce,when the latter is used. Where the bosom fly-edge is flat when ironed, its edges as laundered become sharp and knife-like, and when the bosom bends on an angle thefsharp points produced on its edges out into and wear out the face of the shirt-front where coming in contact with the latter from the motions of the body. -When the raw edges of the bosom are merely covered with one exterior thickness of material and laundered, the

impress of these raw edges becomes manifested in the exterior finish of the fly, which makes their appearance unsightly and objectionable. To obviate these difficulties and to give a rounded edge and beaded finish to the fly-edge of the bosom is the object of my invention.

I am wellaware that a fly-edge as applied fly-edge inthe manner employed byme, and

as shown and described herein.

In the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, there are shown two figures illustrating my invention, with the same designation of parts by letter-reference used in both illustrations.

Figure 1 shows a shirt-front containingabosom attached according to my method, at one of the upper ends of the illustration the attachment being shown as ripped apart to better indicate the positionof the parts. Fig. 2 shows a section of the parts, taken on the line X X of Fig. 1, with the relative thickness of the parts exaggerated to better illustrate them.

The several parts of the shirt are designated by letter-reference and their connection explained, as follows:

The letter B indicates the bosom; S, the shirt-front, and R the front re-enforce of the shirt.

The letter a, designates the bosom-ply, and a the inner facing of the bosom, and D the binding-piece.

The letter S indicates a fold made in the shirt-front on the edge of the opening cut in the latter to receive the bosom, as indicated at O, by turning outwardly and downwardly such edge; and B designates a parallel fold madein the edge of the re-enf'orce R for the same purpose The letterG indicates a fold made on the outer edge of the inner bosom-facing, a which latand the outer edge of the bosom, the latter 7 and the ply being inclosed by the fold (l on the edge of the facing a, and then the bind-" ing D is attached, so as to overlap and underlap the edges of the parts so placed by means of a line of stitching (indicated at N) which passes through each of the vertically-parallel and oppositely-placed edges of the strip, and the intermediately-placed bosom-edge,ply-facing, and fold of the re-enforce and shirt-bod y on the edge of the opening 0 with said line of stitching, away from the outer edges of the bound parts, and on the fold-line of the folds R and S When thus produced the beaded fly A on its outer edge is free from the shirt and adapted to be headed up when laundered, and when ironed the edge of the fly produced will be rounded necessarily.

If desired, the edges of the superimposed parts may be sewed together before the binding is attached,and the latter may be made of straight or bias material. Under some conditions it may also be desirable to omit the ply,

which can be done, and the re-enforce may also be omitted, provided the same fold is formed in the edge of the shirt-opening cut for the bosom, and the latter at its edge inclosed by an overlapping edge of the inner bosomfacing, without departing from my method, for the factors employed and the manner of attaching them would remain the same in either in stance, and whether the overlapping edge of the inside facing, (0 was stitched to or folded down over and pasted to the face of the bosom on its outer edge, it would in either instance cover up the raw edges of the material in the same manner and perform the same office.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,

1. In a bosom-shirt, a beaded fly-edge surrounding the bosom, made with its inner edge attached to the shirt and its rounded outer edge free, and bound with a strip that overlaps and underlaps the edge of the bosom, bosom-facing, and ply, when the latter is used, and the turned-over edge of the shirt-opening where cut out to receive the bosom, as shown and described.

2. In an apparel-shirt, a bosom-beaded'flyedge in combination, consisting of afoldformedin the edge of the opening cut in the shirtfront or shirt-front and re-enforee to receive the bosom, the edge of the bosom, a fold upon the subtendin gedge of the bosom-linin g turned down on the bosom-edge, so as to include the raw edge of the bosom and that of the ply, when used, a binding-piece that overlaps and underlaps the edges of the bosom, bosom-lining, bosom-ply, when used, and the edge of the opening cut out to receive the bosom, and

a row of stitching uniting the oppositely-laid edges of the binding-piece on the fold-line formed in the edge of the opening cutto receive the bosom, as shown and described.

Signed at the city of Troy, New York, this 12th day of February, 1383,

WILLIAM LORD HALL.

Witnesses:

STANLEY M. HOLDEN, CHARLES S. BRINTNALL. 

